Ihlara Valley

An epic story of perseverance and ingenuity lies hidden beneath the rocky cliffs of Turkey's Ihlara Valley.

For Calgary's Peter Lapinski, a young Roman Catholic priest, the journey to this remote area was much more than a typical tourist pleasure trip. It was equal parts history lesson, adventure and pilgrimage.

The Melendiz River flows through the fertile Ihlara Valley in Turkey's south-central region of Cappadocia. Located away from major travel

routes and sheltered by a massive extinct volcano, it served as an oasis of faith and intellectual activity since ancient times. The valley is honeycombed with underground villages and more than 100 churches, decorated with Byzantine frescoes, carved into its cliffs by refugees fleeing persecution during the early years of Christianity.

Lapinski, associate pastor at Calgary's St. Patrick's Catholic Church and an avid photographer, recently made a solo trek to explore Turkey's Cappadocia region. His goals were to experience Turkish culture first-hand and visit the remains of the area's colourful history. By travelling alone, he also hoped to discover more about himself.

"I wanted a more open experience, without everything planned ahead of time," says Lapinski. "By travelling alone, you are able to blend in easier, and it almost forces you to interact more with local people. Plus you have freedom about where to go and where to stay, and lots of time to think."

Cappadocia is filled with many surprises, including a distinctive geological feature called "fairy chimneys."

These isolated towers, formed out of hardened volcanic ash eroded from centuries of wind and rain, can stand as high as 40 metres. Often capped by a cone-shaped spire of harder rock, their unusual appearance delights visitors and locals alike.

The otherworldly beauty of Cappadocia's landscape was only part of its draw for Lapinski. The entire region is a unique slice of history, art and culture.

Dr. Anne Moore, a professor in the University of Calgary's department of religious studies, has also visited the area.

"Cappadocia is a pivotal region in the history of Christianity," says Moore. "It was a famous monastic centre for about a thousand years. The Byzantine era is a period that we in the west are not very familiar with. Having the chance to actually see these icons and artwork is fascinating, and gives you a sense of the glory that was known as the Byzantine Empire."

Lapinski spent time exploring the Cappadocian cities of Aksaray and Kayseri, as well as the famous Goreme Open-Air Museum. A complex of medieval rock-hewn monasteries, Goreme is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a favourite stop for visitors. For Lapinski, however, his hike through the more secluded, quiet Ihlara Valley was the highlight of his trip.

The valley's hidden location made it an ideal site for the first Christians to establish a settlement. Fleeing persecution from advancing Roman soldiers, they dug into the cliffs of soft volcanic rock.

Later, Byzantine monks and other inhabitants seeking safety from invaders at various times between the sixth and 13th centuries enlarged the cave-like dwellings and worshipped in giant, hand-carved rock churches. Many of these are decorated with intricate religious artwork and are connected by a labyrinth of tunnels and corridors. Hiking through the valley is a feast for the senses.

"So many sights and sounds -- the caves and churches cut into the rock, the flowers, the birds, the wind, the water flowing through the valley," recalls Lapinski. "But the thing I remember most is the smells, which is a little surprising. Everything smelled so sweet and rich."

Even though the valley is only 16 kilometres long, Lapinski took his time, examining the churches and ancient frescoes, and spending a night in one of the caves.

"It was a really good sleep, so dark and silent, with no one else around," says Lapinski. "The sunset and sunrise were beautiful from my cave. I imagined being part of this community, these people who had lived there so long ago and who shared the same faith as me."

Besides the cave, Lapinski found a variety of inexpensive accommodations in Turkey, including hostels, pensions, overnight bus rides and a Franciscan monastery in Istanbul. Buses in Turkey, his choice of transportation, are clean, safe and cheap.

According to 2009 statistics, the country's population is 98 per cent Muslim, and Lapinski visited a number of mosques. Throughout his trip, he was impressed with the friendliness of the Turkish people.

"There were tea shops on every corner," says Lapinski. "I loved just sitting and watching the people, enjoying the food and music. Everywhere I went people were so helpful and kind. I met some wonderful people, and a few times I was even mistaken for a Turk."

Lapinski encourages others to have a flexible attitude when travelling.

"We all think that when everything is planned ahead of time, we will be more safe and feel more comfortable," says Lapinski, "but if we are open, if we slow down, if we make space and time for God in our lives, we will be happily surprised. And I think this is true every day of our lives."

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